Bikaner sprawls at the edge of the Thar Desert. Its streets are filled with smog and desert dust, crowded with unusually honest rickshaw drivers and carts pulled by camels (no surprise, there is a biggest camel breeding farm in Asia on the outskirts).
They have very likeable old town. Next to heavily decorated red havelis which are barely hundred years old but look much older stand modern conrete structures. That is very Indian but in Bikaner it feels natural and as if intended.
Not many tourists come here. Walking around old town you are unlikely to meet any. But you will be countlessly invited for a cup of tea by the locals. And they will not try to sell you anything. Not even those who run jewelry shop and the like.
But I did not go to Bikaner because of camels, its old town or drinking tea. I went there to see the Karni Mata rat temple in Deshnok nearby.
Pár fotek
I was invited for a tea countless times, four times was impossible to say no. (I possibly can't drink twenty chais in the afternoon…) 
Camels are everywhere.
Old town has myriads of heavily decorated havelis.
