26. 11. '08

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Kipling once wrote that Jodhpur's fort „is a work of giants and angels.“ Compared to that one in Jaisalmer it is truly imposing and looks impenetrable. And really, nobody even thought about taking it and everybody was rather into diplomacy when it came to Jodhpur. Until Aurangzeb overrun the city, took the fort and converted everybody to Islam.

Giants were certainly needed to built it. Angels lent a hand when it came to decorating the palaces hidden inside. They are covered in reliefs, lattices windows everywhere, colours, mirrors. Unlike in Jaisalmer's one nobody lives in it. It is full of organized tour groups lead by Indian guides speaking perfect German or Spanish, and you meet individuals with black boxes at their ears (audioguide).

Jodhpur has been nicknamed Blue City. And looking down at it from the fort it is easy to see why. It is all blue. Wandering down in the streets it is no longer so convincing. Far from all the houses are blue and unlike in Pink Jaipur there are none coloured houses on the main streets. People widely believe that blue marks brahmin (highest caste) houses. In fact people used to add indigo into white limewash – it was believed to protect the buildings from termites and other pests. And then it caught on…

Even if none of the houses were blue, Jodhpur would still be Blue city. Its streets are full autorickshaws which fill the place with thick blue exhaust fumes.

Few pictures

Fort.
Palace inside the fort.
Smoking opium (part of museum exposition).
Jodhpur is all blue.
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Older note: 22. 11. '08

In Late Afternoon Jaisalmer Is Built Of Gold

They say that to get to Jaisalmer you need horse of wood, legs of stone and carriage of steel. And they are right. It is far away from everywhere, the railway ends there and the roads do not lead much futher. More

More recent note: 30. 11. '08

James Bond Will Be Late

Rickshaws swerve around the bends tipping the fruit stalls over, oranges roll on the street. It is not any more quiet at the lake either. Boats manically chase each other and James Bond is shooting at the bad guys. More

 
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